Alfa Romeo 155

:: Changing the rear brake pads ::
A routine maintenance task. If you have any queries about this technical article or wish to submit your own article please email technical@alfa155.co.uk

:: Changing the rear brake pads ::

A routine maintenance task.

If you have any queries about this technical article or wish to submit your own article please email technical@alfa155.co.uk

This article is incomplete...to be completed at a later date when I have osme pictures!
First, you'll need to buy a tool. It's possible to do this job without the wind-back tool but if your caliper piston is even slightly seized you'll struggle and risk damaging the rubber piston dust cover. For the sake of £20 it makes sense.
	Undo the handbrake gaiter and look underneath the handbrake, you'll see a long hexagon, undo this until there is plenty of play in the handbrake cable.
Assuming you've removed the road wheel and jacked up the car (with stands!)...remove the handbrake cable from the caliper lever.
	Check the cable pulls through easily and if not, squirt some oil into the end of the cable and set it in a vertical position. Keep checking and pulling on the cable until it moves freely, if not, replace the cable.

Remove the two retaining bolts at the rear of the caliper, on the end of the sliders.
	Gently lever the pads away from the discs to provide clearance or otherwise wiggle the whole caliper off the disc.
Remove the pads from the carrier and replace as necessary.
	Check the disc surface and replace if pitted or excessively worn. The disc is removed by undoing the spiked locating screws with an 11mm spanner.
Remove the slider pins and rubber protection boots, they just pull out. If the boots are damaged they need to be replaced or you'll suffer seized brakes in the future.
	Clean up the slider pins using fine emery paper. Grease with high temperature grease such as Lithium grease and replace, DO NOT use copper grease for this. Copper grease becomes sticky when it's heated and is not suitable for moving parts in such an environment.
However, you should use copper grease when re-assembling the rest of the caliper, this reduces corrosion and brake "squeal". Grease he rear of the pads as shown.
	When reassembling, ensure the nipple on the rear of the brake pad is located in the gaps on the piston, not on the surface in contact with the rea rof the pads - failure to do this will result in the pads fitting at a very odd angle and no hope of setting the handbrake properly!
Replace the caliper and tighten the two slider bolts.
	Press the brake pedal until resistance is felt, the rear pads are now on the disc face and the handbrake can be adjusted. Failure to perform this step will result in a poor handbrake.
Reattach the handbrake cable at the caliper end.
	Tighten the hanbrake adjustment nut until the handbrake travels around 4-5 clicks an dis effective at holding the car. You should not have a working handbrake and new rear pads fitted properly!
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This article is incomplete...to be completed at a later date when I have osme pictures!

First, you'll need to buy a tool.

It's possible to do this job without the wind-back tool but if your caliper piston is even slightly seized you'll struggle and risk damaging the rubber piston dust cover.

For the sake of £20 it makes sense.

Undo the handbrake gaiter and look underneath the handbrake, you'll see a long hexagon, undo this until there is plenty of play in the handbrake cable.

Assuming you've removed the road wheel and jacked up the car (with stands!)...remove the handbrake cable from the caliper lever.

Check the cable pulls through easily and if not, squirt some oil into the end of the cable and set it in a vertical position. Keep checking and pulling on the cable until it moves freely, if not, replace the cable.

Remove the two retaining bolts at the rear of the caliper, on the end of the sliders.

Gently lever the pads away from the discs to provide clearance or otherwise wiggle the whole caliper off the disc.

Remove the pads from the carrier and replace as necessary.

Check the disc surface and replace if pitted or excessively worn.

The disc is removed by undoing the spiked locating screws with an 11mm spanner.

Remove the slider pins and rubber protection boots, they just pull out. If the boots are damaged they need to be replaced or you'll suffer seized brakes in the future.

Clean up the slider pins using fine emery paper. Grease with high temperature grease such as Lithium grease and replace, DO NOT use copper grease for this. Copper grease becomes sticky when it's heated and is not suitable for moving parts in such an environment.

However, you should use copper grease when re-assembling the rest of the caliper, this reduces corrosion and brake "squeal".

Grease he rear of the pads as shown.

When reassembling, ensure the nipple on the rear of the brake pad is located in the gaps on the piston, not on the surface in contact with the rea rof the pads - failure to do this will result in the pads fitting at a very odd angle and no hope of setting the handbrake properly!

Replace the caliper and tighten the two slider bolts.

Press the brake pedal until resistance is felt, the rear pads are now on the disc face and the handbrake can be adjusted.

Failure to perform this step will result in a poor handbrake.

Reattach the handbrake cable at the caliper end.

Tighten the hanbrake adjustment nut until the handbrake travels around 4-5 clicks an dis effective at holding the car.

You should not have a working handbrake and new rear pads fitted properly!

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