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Obtain a length of tube.
I judged the maximum length to be about 1300mm and cut accordingly. |
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Just make sure it's strong enough
to take the bonnet weight!
The tube I used is 14mm o/d with
10mm i/d.
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The idea is to form two hooks to
match the original prop and insert them into each end of the tube.
Some 10mm steel bar was needed, but
without turning down some much thicker stock, all I had was some
rusty old 150mm bolts!
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The bolt head had to be
removed. |
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A 40mm length was turned
to fit inside the tube, then the rest was reduced to around 8mm;
which is the same thickness as the original bonnet prop. |
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One finished.... |
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Two finished. |
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Now to bending.
Two old 155 rear arm bolts become
a former when held tightly in a vice.
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Using the remaining tube
helps with leverage and cold bending the first shape. |
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Compared with the original... |
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...and cut to size. |
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On to the next bend, which is a bit
tighter, I used a piece of flat stock to form the first bend and
applied heat from a blowtorch.
No idea if it helped but the bend
is close enough!
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The main radius was cold
bent around a 12mm bolt. |
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Compared with the original
and cut to size. |
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Both bends completed. |
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These are the rivets I decided to
use, to avoid welding and allow for replacement if necessary.
They are 5mm in diameter and usually
for leather, but ideal for this purpose!
|
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So a 5mm hole was drilled
through the tube and 10mm part of the hooks. |
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Rivet inserted and hammered
into close contact with the tube to avoid sharp edges...this is
why the soft copper rivet was ideal, but still strong enough to
hold the bonnet weight. |
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...and of course, it needed
the protective plastic
modification to safeguard the precious SZ bodywork! |
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Finished item, measuring
around 1400mm |
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SZ bonnet open with the
standard prop in place. |
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A mere 700mm clearance. |
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SZ bonnet open with the
extended bonnet prop in place. |
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A more generous 1300mm
of clearance with massively increased access and lighter engine
bay. |
| To further demonstrate
the point...side views show the bonnet angle approaching ninety
degrees to give full access! |
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As you can see, an extremely useful
tool when working on the SZ's engine.
Another slight adaptation I'm considering
is cutting the bonnet prop in half and sleeving the joint so the
two halves can be stored easily (perhaps in the car?) and assembled
when needed.
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